Here's pics of the right side (with a little mud/dirt I'd not yet cleaned out)after the nut-plates I created were installed and painted, before reinstalling the plastic covers which were drilled to accept the mounting bolts for the rack feet.
Worked out real nice and will allow the rack to be completely removed if desired by simply undoing a few bolts. I then inverted the fender washers so the nuts were down in the holes.then welded the fender washers to the rails.
So what I did was use a step-bit/unibit to drill holes for 3/4" nuts to fit down inside the holes.AFTER I'd welded the nuts to fender-washers. I followed navajoram 's advice and mounted it by first installing nuts into my rails.but did it differently because I didn't want to have to remove my ramboxes (I've got them wired for addt'l lights and have an aircompressor mounted in one which supplies air for my trainhorns and didn't want to have to disconnect all that to remove the boxes.) Let me know what you guys think and if you have any questions about the setup.
Roof rack for rambox full#
I don't expect to carry the full rated load on this system because of having a smaller mounting surface but for my purposes of kayaks, camping gear and other light loads it should work great.
Roof rack for rambox install#
I picked the contractors rack up on boxing day for $260 and the whole install cost me less than $300. The only downsides are having to drill into the bed itself and having more of a permanent system. This install is still fairly new it seems to be working very well and seems rather solid. Also ensure you have enough room for the rambox to open with all the rack hardware in place.
Make sure you get all the rack footings aligned square otherwise you may not be able to get the rack into the footing. Alternatively you could drill the holes on the rear portion and go in from the rambox side. Fortunately I was able to reach between the cab and the box and get a ratchet onto the bolts to tighten them. In the front I drilled into the very forward metal surface without really thinking how I was going to get all the hardware installed. The rear mounts I was able to reach inside to get the bolts on after removing the rambox. Initially I was going to cut the plastic corner covers and put metal to metal but so far keeping the covers seems to be working. I used 2 1/2" bolts on each corner to bolt the rack directly to the frame. Also you have to crawl underneath and unplug the wiring harness for the box internal lights. Removing the box is simply a matter of removing all the 10mm bolts in the box, where the top hinges are, and where the latch is. I had to remove the whole rambox itself in order to get bolts into the bed frame. I repainted over the cut edges with rust paint. I took a contractor rack and cut the footings to fit the limited space available in the corners. For everyone interested this is an overview of how I did it. I apologize for not making a better tutorial because I'm new to using the forum system. This was the solution that I came up with after all the truck shops told me it couldn't be done.
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